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After our stroll we were treated by the caretakers to local wine to quench our thirst, but unlike the 12 men who consumed 12 gallons over eight hours while carrying the monastery’s grand piano for the last monk, Nikola Milcevic, we refrained from the last few gallons in eager anticipation of returning to our yacht and skipper, both of which we had become quite attached to. After a swim in the early evening and a short sail to the island’s beautiful bay of Lucice, we were back to eating and drinking. Our stewardess, Zrinka, was eager to recommend off-the-tourist-track restaurants and sights and, ever eager to please, she arranged our final supper in the most peaceful restaurant. It is family-run by local celebrities and we were treated to artichoke, pea and prosciutto stew accompanied by stories of the past conflicts and an insight into the idyllic island life.
   
Stepping up on deck the next morning we found that Robbie and Zrinka had raised the sails early to ensure we had time to explore the old town of Split before our flight home. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Split is one of the best-known places in Dalmatia. The city grew up around the vast site of Diocletian’s Palace, the waterfront residence completed by the Roman emperor in AD305. Over the centuries, the three hectares of towers, fortifications, vaults, slave quarters and apartments have been turned into a warren of shops, restaurants and cafes, and so the social centre remains within the walls of the palace.
    
The entire Dalmatian scene is alluring and exploring it on a yacht is especially appropriate, given that much of it comprises islands and coves that are not easily accessible. The most interesting spots are known by word of mouth and it is recommended that those new to the area or fresh to sailing enlist the help of Sail Croatia’s experienced skippers who can both guide guests and develop their sailing skills. Sail Croatia can also provide charter yachts between 35-56 feet on a bareboat basis or fully crewed. For further information visit www.sailcroatia.net. For yachts over 100 feet, visit www.cnconnect.com to view Camper & Nicholsons International’s large fleet available for charter along the Dalmatian coast.

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