It hardly seemed feasible that we could be hungry next morning, but even if we were not we could not resist the freshly baked focaccia and cappuccino before we sailed.  Ben slipped the moorings and we moved clear of our berth, the twin MAN engines growling and snarling to push her faster than the port speed limits permit.  Eventually we are clear of the long breakwater. The sun is out, the sea is blue to match the cloudless sky and we are off, creaming across the Golfo Paradiso at thirty knots.  By the time Bogliasco is abeam, we are well clear of the urban sprawl ashore and are thundering towards Recco in the shadow of the Portofino promontory, which is in fact one huge mountain protruding from the ocean floor to form what is now the national park of Portofino.  Its peak is 612 metres above sea level but, given the surrounding vista, it is an impressive sight.  We anchor in the lee of the mountain and swim in the clear blue waters. As we dive down amongst the rocks, small fish guard entrances to tiny grottos.  We spend the morning wakeboarding, windsurfing and snorkelling.  The water is still crispy cool but once back on deck the sun has enough heat to dry us off quickly.  The cockpit provides all we need to be entertained; the CD/Radio is linked into the hi-fi with a surround sound system, there is a wet bar with icemaker and Ben is producing wonderful aromas on the BBQ.

After lunch we hug the coast passing Camogli and San Rocco. High above us we see hikers walking the mountains footpaths and get a cheery wave in reply to ours as we pass the tiny village of San Fruttuoso before rounding the headland of Madonna del Capo. We pass Portofino to port because Ben wants to show us the delightful port of San Margherita Ligure favored by the jet set for its beaches, private villas, shops, and the inimitable charm of a classic and classy tourist destination.  We motor on to investigate Rappallo, set in the deepest inlet of the Golfo del Tigllio.  Just behind the town lies a world-famous golf course originally opened in the 1930s and a great favorite with the then Duke of Windsor.  The club has as its backdrop the ruins of the Abbey of Valle Christi, which dominates the skyline when approaching from seaward. Another attraction of this coastline is a cable car, which conjures up images of ski-laden trips up a valley to snowy white slopes. Here in Rappallo this spectacularly panoramic transport takes visitors from the shore upwards by 612 metres to the 16th century sanctuary of the Madonna di Montallegro with its gleaming white facades and collections of seafarer’s votive offerings.  The afternoon nearly spent, Ben turns Maluva around and heads back towards Portofino

We slow down off the port and enter slowly.  Once inside the main harbor, we turn around and proceed towards the berth astern, dropping the anchor in the middle of the tiny port still backing up towards the dock. Once we are berthed we scurry ashore clutching cameras and notebooks. We want to climb the hill and explore Castle Brown before the best part of the day is over.  Castle Brown sits on top of a hill overlooking the harbour; a steep pathway winds its way to the crest. Once there we are rewarded by one of the most spectacular and famous scenes in Italy. Montague Yeats Brown was the British consul to these parts in the late 1800s and he rescued and renamed the castle that was originally built in 1432 to defend the port from piratical attacks from galleys crewed by Venetians. Over the years the castle developed and fortification was increased. Bonaparte of France occupied the port and rechristened Portofino as Port Napoleon during the Campaign of Egypt, and in 1867 the consul purchased what remained of the fort and began a long conversion into a private home.  It remained in the hands of British families until 1965 when it was sold to the nation for the benefit of all.  Its stunning beauty and history are secondary to the views it affords of the port and this is not a photograph to miss. 

We take our host and dine ashore; Da Batti is a gastronomic experience and one that should not be omitted.  Once inside you quickly realize how serious they are when the proprietor ties a small apron around your neck to protect your chin, shirt and chest from the delights the four courses offered without the benefit of a menu.  The meal follows the now familiar Italian format of antipasti, pastas and then a main course of crayfish cooked in lemoncella olive oil and white wine. It is all so delicious and eating the large crayfish with the fingers so decently therapeutic.  After eating a selection of magnificent gelatos, we take a double espresso and wander back to take a digestive on the deck of our splendid craft moored in the center of the harbour. 

Church bells ring out the call urging the faithful to mass in beautifully painted chapels.  The sleepy town of Portofino is slow to start on Sunday and begins to stir around 10 am when the shops and boutiques open their doors for business. Not that we visited the insides of Hermes, Gucci and Georgio Amarni, but we did enjoy window shopping and drinking in the heady atmosphere the port evokes.  The town is so picturesque that it is full of tourists who threaten to drown and swamp it at times. Fortunately bars, bistros, and cafes are well represented and soak up the surplus throng long enough to walk the narrow streets and drink in the ambience.  By mid-afternoon it is time to depart and speed our way back to Genoa where our host hurriedly leaves and heads towards another airport.  We have the luxury of one more night in Genoa and chose to dine with the crew at Cantina di Maria, a Genoese institution where you wear what you like and sit at long trestle tables prepared to strike up conversation with bankers or out-of-work sailors, all of whom frequent the place looking for a good cheap meal.  Next morning we visit the Oriental market, an undercover haven of produce from pasta to vegetables, wonderful flowers, fresh fish and meat surrounded by a smaller perimeter of stalls stacked with cheeses, biscuits, salami and cold meats.  Because carrying capacity is limited we stick to more trofiette, pasta and buy enough pesto sauce to top it.  Later that afternoon as we take off for home we reflect – it sure beats the socks off the backyard.  

M/Y Maluva

• 4 guests plus 2 children in two double and one upper and lower (for children), all en-suite.

Specification

• LOA: 66ft3 (20.20m)
• Beam: 16ft7 (5.08m)
• Draft: 4ft5 (1.35m)
• Engines: 2 x 1050 MAN
• Speed: Cruising 28 kts - 34 kts max
• Fuel: 200 litres/hour
• Built: Princess, 2002
• Status: Commercially registered
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Equipment

• Cellular phone
• 10.4Ft (3.2m) Avon RIB jet tender
• Water-skiing
• Wakeboard
• Snorkelling gear
• Folding moped Folding bicycle
• Air conditioning
• Watermaker