After cruising through some of the most beautiful islands in the U.S., it was difficult to say which left a stronger impression: a stunning 30ft orca whale nearly jumping over a kayak, or Jamal's fabulous all-female crew.

When the captain of Jamal greeted our family at picturesque Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham, Washington, we immediately sensed we were in for a treat. The petite, vivacious Captain Jennifer Hanna, in an officer's shirt and dangling beaded earrings, had been awaiting our arrival. The rest of the crew - First Mate Maureen "Mo" McNamee and Chef Sally Jones - quickly arrived to welcome us. As we headed down the dock to Jamal, past colorful hundred-year-old wooden fishing boats, we began to get a feel for the Pacific Northwest - and for our all female crew.

 Jamal, a 75ft Hatteras ocean trawler, was a knockout amongst her neighbors. As we boarded, I admired the contrast between her gleaming exterior and the charming paint-worn boat docked port-side. Sally told me that the rugged-looking fishing vessel had just returned from Alaska and that the captain had presented her with an hours-old salmon we would sample at lunch. I was getting hungry already.

My husband Jay and I and our two daughters, Rachel and Emma, unpacked quickly, anxious to get underway and experience the magnificent scenery and abundant wildlife of the San Juans. Our full-width master stateroom was located on the main deck. Like the rest of Jamal, it was light and airy, and lined with windows that provided panoramic views. It featured a king-size bed, dressing area, and an en suite bath in a separate alcove. A bouquet of fresh peach-colored roses, a silky down comforter, and a display of nautical items added to the ambience. A large closet and many deep drawers made for quick and easy stowage. Below, Rachel and Emma's staterooms were equally inviting and commodious. After quickly settling in, we assembled in the saloon for a brief orientation.

 The sunny lightoak paneled room was lined with picture windows that framed tantalizing views of the harbor and the snowcapped Cascade Mountains in the distance. The layout resembled a great room with the galley in the open, separated from the saloon by an island covered with bouquets of brilliant zinnias, sunflowers, and lilies, and fragrant bundles of rosemary, lavender, and thyme - all of which, we were told, were grown in the crew's home gardens. Baskets heaped with mangoes, eggplants, tomatoes, and peppers hinted of the meals that lay ahead.

As we settled into the comfortable sofas, Captain Jennifer told us that she had grown up on the water. Her first voyage had been to Desolation Sound (one of British Columbia's most spectacular cruising areas, which Jamal still frequents) for two months - when she was just three weeks old. Years later, in 1989, her father, Captain Jim Hanna, an elementary-school principal, real-estate developer, and businessman who had spent much of his life boating in nearby waters, fell in love with this Hatteras hull (one of only seven built to oceangoing specifications) that he had spotted in Tacoma. He purchased it and spent the next few years building Jamal with a team of designers and naval architects, and, of course, the aid of his daughter Jennifer. "I still remember hauling cement for ballast," she says.

Jennifer worked on various boats and began skippering on Jamal in the early '90s. She was soon joined by her good friend - First Mate and Chief Stewardess, Maureen. The two have known each other for more than 20 years and work together fluidly. Sally joined the crew about 10 years ago. The three women, all born and raised in the Pacific Northwest and all united by their love of the sea, couldn't wait to introduce us to the area they know intimately. "We love where we live," said Jennifer. "Although I've sailed these areas for years, it's always different. I've never been bored a day in my life."

 After stressing Jamal's high safety standards, Jennifer took the helm, Maureen pulled the dock lines, and Sally headed for the galley. We were underway, heading southwest out of Bellingham Bay into shimmering Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, off the northwest coast of Washington. Long a destination for wildlife watchers, photographers, and even scuba divers, the area is a vast waterway of straits and channels that link more than 150 islands (the number is constantly debated), the exposed tops of an ancient mountain range.

Initially, we wandered about the boat, checking out the various vantage points, including the spacious window-lined sky lounge and the aft upper deck laid out with black-and-white striped cushioned lounges. We ultimately ended up in the wheelhouse with Jennifer, where a cozy curved banquette provided the perfect view as well as entertaining commentary. Jennifer was a font of knowledge and seemed to genuinely enjoy explaining everything, pulling out charts and maps, and jumping up to hand out binoculars when she spotted something noteworthy with her trained eye. She told us we would transit four straits on this trip: Rosario Straits, the Straits of Georgia, Haro Strait, and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We would often be within sight of either the spectacular 10,000-17,000ft snow-capped Cascade or Olympic Mountains.

 As we succumbed to the inviting smells wafting up from the galley, and descended to the main dining area, we found a beautifully set table with blue and yellow linens awaiting us for our first lunch at sea. Each of our seats offered exquisite views of the Sound - and of the food! Creamy butternut, acorn, and zucchini squash soup topped with yogurt and garnished with fresh coriander and toasted cashews started us off. Served with Indian naan bread and hummous, it could have been a meal in itself, but Sally, who apparently believes that sea air creates an appetite, wasn't stopping there. We progressed to the next course: the fresh-caught king salmon she had promised, on a bed of fresh stir-fried anise, fennel, and bok choy over Asian sesame noodles with baby greens and spinach puffs! When we raved about the dish, Sally told us she had created it for her father.

 After lunch (as soon as we could move), we ascended to the upper deck for some sun as we passed through the Cone Islands, where parts of "Free Willy" were filmed. On the surrounding tree-covered islands, native Madrona trees, green inside and red out, bent in contorted shapes and seemed to grow directly out of the rock in many places. Suddenly Jennifer called us into the wheelhouse. She grabbed the binoculars and pointed out several bald eagles perched high in the trees on Towhead Island. We continued at a comfortable 8.5 knots along the East Sound of Orcas Island where our captain had spent many summers as a child with her family.

Jennifer told us that Mo was the whale-watch expert on board, and that they had begun their quest for the 25-30ft orca whales often spotted throughout the San Juans. Although May and June are typically the best months for whale watching, and we were there in August, Jennifer and Mo were determined that we were going to find some. Mo was carefully monitoring the radio and Jennifer said they "had their ways" of gaining information on the latest sightings. We didn't doubt for a minute that they would track the orcas down.

We were headed toward one of Jennifer's favorite spots in the San Juans, Sucia Island, which is mostly National Park land. As she explained the various electronics and navigational aids and told us about her experiences skippering here, I asked her whether Jamal's guests usually spend so much time in the wheelhouse. "It varies," she told me. "Some guests want complete privacy; others even eat up here! I love when they do - it gets lonely sometimes." As if on cue, Sally appeared with a heaping bowl of sweet, ripe burgundy-colored Okanagon cherries, which we had jokingly told her beforehand we had enjoyed on a previous trip to British Columbia. She had apparently scoured several markets the day before to find them.

The sky was starting to turn lavender as we approached Sucia and Echo Bay, where we would be anchoring that evening. We had a breathtaking view of the quaint little harbor with the 10,000ft snow-covered Mt. Baker looming in the distance. Jennifer and Mo lowered the skiff into the crystal-clear water and in minutes we were heading over to hike along the trails and explore the sandy coves. Even Mo, who had been there many times, was taken in by the beauty, and said to one of my daughters, "You just feel like you could take one breath out here and live a lifetime."

 Jennifer landed the skiff in Fossil Bay, and left us to explore for a couple of hours. She provided us with a walkie-talkie and told us to call when we were ready so that she could pick us up on the Echo Bay side. The beautiful fern-lined paths stretched upwards at first, exposing some magnificent views through the trees. When the trail wound down to the beach again, pebbles of many colors glistened in the pre-sunset light. As we walked farther, we were awed by sandstone cliffs that had eroded to form magnificent shapes - one formation looked like a giant face. Madrona trees stretched out of the rock and hung over the tide pools. We sat on a fallen log, gazing out over the water, enjoying the lapping waves and the changing light.

Meanwhile, back on Jamal, Sally had been busy as usual. As the sun set, we were seated at a beautiful table done in blacks and golds and treated to a dinner of crabby fish - fresh halibut stuffed with crab - and a wonderful flan for desert.

 Early the next morning, anchored out, I awoke to total silence and nothing in sight except a mist slowly rising over the calm, rippling water. A dozen or so odd-shaped islands rose up in the foreground and a few fish splashed here and there. And what was that incredible aroma? I followed my nose to the dining table where Sally was laying out carefully composed fruit salad with the plumpest blackberries I've ever seen, to accompany heavenly fresh-baked orange, oatmeal, and pecan scones. As if this weren't enough, the repast was accompanied by a selection of cereals and muffins and offers of omelettes and pancakes.

Jennifer appeared - in yet another piece of Jamal-embroidered clothing - to tell us that the tide was rising and she didn't want to miss the chance to show us one of her favorite spots. I grabbed one more scone and we quickly climbed into the waiting skiff. As we motored out, there were no other boats in sight. Although I had read about the San Juans being a popular destination, bringing crowds of tourists in the summer, Jennifer was certainly adept at avoiding them.

 Headed out toward Clements Reef in the Straits of Georgia, we carefully made our way through the shoals, navigating small channels and giant kelp beds. As the passage opened up, the snow-covered peaks of Mt. Baker and the Twin Sisters came into view, and before us lay hundreds of harbor seals basking in the morning sun. Many dove from the rocks, and their sleek bobbing heads and whiskers surrounded the skiff as they greeted us with their throaty barks. On the way back to Jamal, we passed another community of seals. Jennifer told us that this was the spot where they have their babies, and that she has witnessed many births over the years.

 As we approached Jamal, we saw that Mo had kayaks waiting for us. We transferred from skiff to kayaks and paddled around the serene bay into shallow coves, admiring the many sandstone nooks and crannies on the islands surrounding Sucia. A lone seal, an emerging fish, or a few passing sailboats were all that broke the calm.

Back on board it was time to eat again! Sally presented us with her signature Red Pepper Soup (see recipe), followed by an array of fresh sushi and sashimi featuring Alaskan smoked salmon (that Jennifer had caught) and Washington tuna.

 After lunch, Jennifer and Mo told us that there had been some whale sightings so we would circumnavigate San Juan Island on our way to Friday Harbor, where we would dock for the night. While in transit, I lazed out on the aft upper deck, too comfortable and engrossed in the scenery to even read my book. The snow-capped mountains in the distance, an occasional passing porpoise, the incredible cloud formations, and the warm Pacific sunshine were far more inviting. Gradually a few small whale-watching boats appeared and there was more activity on the radio. The crew's knowledge and perseverance had paid off. Nothing could have prepared us for the thrill of the 6-8ft fins and the 30-40ft black-and-white beauties gracefully arcing out of the water! The low rumbling sound that accompanied the whooshing of their spray had us running in all directions as we spotted first one, then another, then a pair. As we got closer, one member of the pod suddenly emerged and came within what seemed like inches of a pair of kayakers not more than 50ft away from us. The show went on for about 30 minutes and then, as suddenly as they appeared, they were gone, leaving us a little breathless.

We were still talking about the whales as we approached Friday Harbor. We also caught sight of the impressive snow-covered 17,000ft Mt Rainier, which apparently shows its face only 90 days a year. The light was once again changing, this time to a pale blue-gray sky and deep cobalt-blue water. The harbor, filled mostly with sailboats, had reserved a somewhat tricky berth for Jamal, which Jennifer eased into effortlessly. In fact, the captain of the only other large yacht present, later praised her: "We've never seen a female captain, let alone with an all-girl crew. We admired the way you brought the boat in."

 As the light faded, we made our way through the docks, admiring the variety of boats, many with several bicycles attached. We explored the quaint town, home to a whale museum, a wide selection of restaurants, and several boutiques. As we headed back down the hill, we had a spectacular view of Rainier, the harbor, and of course once again standing out amongst all her neighbors, Jamal.

 The Jamalian Girls
Jamal's all-female crew - Captain Jennifer, First Mate and Chief Stewardess Maureen, and Chef Sally - along with three additional crew members, have become fondly known as the "Jamalian Girls." An extremely capable group, they run a tight ship and have a great time in the process. Their versatile backgrounds make them the perfect hostesses while their practical skills ensure the utmost in safety. Jennifer and Mo are also trained firefighters. They do all the engineering work themselves, and Jennifer recently redesigned Jamal's waste system to make it more efficient.

Jennifer holds a 100-ton U.S. Coast Guard Master's license and is CPR-first aidcertified. This came in handy when she was docked off the coast of Baja, with only one other boat nearby. Suddenly she heard screaming; the boater had caught his finger in the chain of his winch. Jennifer grabbed her first aid kit and set and sewed his mashed finger. When the boater finally got to a hospital several days later, the plastic surgeon said she had done a great job. Jennifer skippers from late June through early September. The rest of the year, she can be found at the helm of a different group: a sixth grade class. She has taught at Lynden Middle School for 15 years. Her father, Captain Jim Hanna, skippers while she's in school.

Auburn-haired, freckle-faced Maureen has a quiet presence, but is an "awesome first mate" according to Jennifer. She handles her many responsibilities with competence and confidence and never seems frazzled. Perhaps that calm comes from her school-year job: teaching emotionally disturbed teens.

Chef Sally possesses a natural flair for entertaining. She handles the galley in an effortless fashion, taking true joy in delighting her guests and catering to their diverse tastes - even when one recent guest requested only grilled cheese sandwiches. She is also an herbalist and has spent time in India studying natural healing and cooking.

Recently the crew entertained Jennifer's three young nieces on board and engaged them in changing the oil and handling the lines. "We're gearing them up to be the next generation of Jamalian Girls," said Jennifer proudly.
- J.M.

 Chef Sally's Signature Red Pepper Soup

• 9 large red bell peppers, chopped
• 1 large sweet onion, chopped
• 4 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
• 1 large pear, peeled and diced
• 1 chipotle pepper (a ripe jalapeno that has been dried for use in cooking)
• 1-1/2 quarts chicken or vegetable broth
• 2T olive oil
• Salt to taste
• Cayenne pepper
• Saute all vegetables and pear in olive oil until soft, about 10 minutes. Add broth and simmer for 30 minutes, with lid on.
• Pour into blender and liquefy. Return to pot and simmer (low) for about 10 minutes.
• Serve with a dollop of chipotle and sour cream sauce, garnished with fresh cilantro and mint and a strip of red pepper.
• If desired, add shrimp, lobster, or cooked or smoked salmon.

Information
Jamal accommodates up to eight guests and charters in Alaska from May through July, and in the San Juan Islands and British Columbia, August through October. Occasional charters to Mexico are available. Rates range from $20,000-28,000 per week, depending on number of guests. Off-season and short-term rates are available. Contact Jamal Charters at 425-823-4147 or jim@jamalcharters.com